The American traveler, if he thinks about it at all, ex pects to have rice cakes whenever he has tea in Japan. He draws his conclusions from the tins of paper-thin rice cakes he purchases in a shop anywhere from San Francisco to Timbuctoo. Rice cakes, or any other cakes are hard to find at Afternoon Tea in Japan.

Drinking tea in Japan is a ceremony. The "Tea Cere mony" is so difficult to learn one goes to school a whole year before it is thoroughly mastered.

The American traveler in Japan is told by friends of the Diplomatic Service that there is only one safe code of eti quette for the American woman to follow when going to "Tea" in Japan. The simple rules she must follow are easily conformed to. She must slip off her shoes at the door. The Japanese hostess will probably supply her with sandals which she must put on. Then she must be sure to take the right position at the tiny tea table. Kneel, sit back upon the heels, and keep the body erect. The cup, the diplomatic friend advises, should be held in the cupped left palm. It is lifted with the right hand and the tea is sipped.

This much of the ceremony was simple enough. But the food that went with that particular "Tea" was difficult. Soy beans had been cut in thick and thin, big and little pieces, then roasted, much as we salt almonds. They had a pleasing flavor, and all the pieces somehow tasted a little different. But they were a poor substitute for tea cakes.

"Are toasted soy beans all one gets for tea?" the diplo matic friend was asked.

"The American lady would like cakes with her tea," he told the attendant in the little Tea House.

A queer sort of sweet was brought. Yokan it is called.