FRENCH RECIPES


The author recalls a walk along the banks of the river Loire an autumn afternoon. The group of friends walking together that afternoon had little to say to each other. It was one of those times when perfect weather enhanced the loveliness of the landscape and made talk seem a sacrilege. The setting sun made a golden path across the water. The first pale grey of dusk seemed to bring with it an added stillness.

That stillness was broken by the French woman in the party. "Come, drink chocolate with me," she invited.

It is always chocolat, if the service is typically French. The beverage is made of water instead of milk. Cocoa, sugar and water are boiled together to a thick, creamy paste. Then hot water and heavy cream are added and the drink is beaten until frothy.

The French lady served the delicious chocolat in small, squat royal blue cups, which one sees in Orleans and plans to buy, without fail. And with the steaming hot drink, meringues were served. But they were not like American meringues. They were filled with whipped cream.

1. Meringues a la Creme

(Cream Meringues)

cup sugar 1/4 cup water

egg whites unbeaten

Mix the ingredients together in a granite saucepan. Set the pan in a pot of simmering water and stir constantly

until the mixture is heavy enough to hold its shape. Remove the pan from the hot water and set it in cold water. Continue stirring until cool. Drop into small cookies and bake at 250° F. for forty-five minutes. Carefully crush in the bottoms of the meringues and allow them to cool. When ready to serve, fill the centers with whipped cream and press two meringues together.

2. Chaux au Chocolat

(Chocolate Cream Puffs)

1 cup flour sifted 2 tbsp. sugar

1 cup water 4 eggs unbeaten

1/3 cup butter 1/4 tsp. salt

Heat the butter, sugar, salt and water together until it boils. Gradually add the flour and cook until the mixture does not stick to the pan. Stir constantly. Remove from the fire and add the eggs, one at a time. Mix well. Drop into small cakes and bake at 450° F. for twenty minutes. Reduce the heat to 325° F. and continue baking twenty minutes. Make a slit in the side of the cakes and fill with whipped cream. Ice the tops with sweet chocolate melted over hot water.

3. Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly

Puff paste sugar

egg slightly beaten jam or marmalade

Roll puff paste thin. Cut with a fluted cutter. From half of the biscuits cut a ring from the center. Brush the biscuits with egg. Place one with a hole upon a whole

biscuit. Bake at 450° F. for fifteen minutes. Just before removing the cakes from the oven sprinkle them with sugar and bake until glazed. Fill the centers with jam just before serving.

4. Gateaux an Noix

(Walnut Cake)

4 egg whites well beaten 1 cup walnuts chopped

4 egg yolks well beaten 1 cup dry bread crumbs

grated rind of 1/2 lemon 1/8 tsp. mace

1/2 cup sugar 1/8 tsp. cloves

Blend the egg yolks and sugar together. Add the bread crumbs, nuts and flavoring. Fold in the egg whites. Spread thinly into a well buttered pan and bake at 350° F. for thirty minutes. Cut into small squares and spread with whipped cream just before serving.

5. Gateaux Chambord

(Sponge Cake)

1/2 cup cake flour sifted 5 egg yolks unbeaten

three times 5 egg whites beaten stiff

1/2 cup sugar sifted

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. vanilla

Add the sugar, salt and vanilla to the egg yolks and beat ten minutes. Fold in the egg whites. Then lightly fold in the flour. Pour into a shallow baking pan and bake at 325° F. for thirty minutes. Cut into small squares when cold and spread with the following:

2 egg yolks unbeaten 1 cup milk

2 tbsp. sugar 1/2 cup almonds blanched

1 tbsp. flour and chopped

1/2 tsp. vanilla

Mix the egg yolks, sugar, flour and milk together in a double boiler and cook for five minutes. Stir to keep from lumping. Remove from the fire and add the almonds and vanilla. Cool before spreading the cakes.

6. Baba an Medfre

Sift together

21/2 cups flour 11/2 cups flour sifted

1/2 tsp. salt 1 cake compressed yeast

1/2 cup butter melted

Mix With 1 cup milk warmed

1 cup Sultana raisins 1/2 cup milk cold

3 eggs well beaten

Break the yeast in small pieces and add it to the warm milk. When it begins to foam beat in the flour. Continue beating for five minutes. Let the batter rise in a warm place for two hours. Add the sponge, eggs, cold milk, and butter to the flour and raisins and mix into a smooth dough. Knead for ten minutes. Form into a thin cake, place in a well-greased pan, set in a warm place and let rise to twice the bulk. Bake at 375° F. for about thirty minutes.

Make a heavy syrup of 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water. When the syrup spins a thread remove from the fire and stir in 6 tablespoons of Madeira. Baste the warm cake with the syrup, putting on so little at a time that it does not soak into the cake. Cut in small squares when cold.

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