The author recalls a walk along the banks of the river Loire an autumn afternoon. The
group of friends walking together that afternoon had little to say to each other. It was
one of those times when perfect weather enhanced the loveliness of the landscape and made
talk seem a sacrilege. The setting sun made a golden path across the water. The first pale
grey of dusk seemed to bring with it an added stillness.
That stillness was broken by the French woman in the party. "Come, drink chocolate with
me," she invited.
It is always chocolat, if the service is typically French. The beverage is made of water
instead of milk. Cocoa, sugar and water are boiled together to a thick, creamy paste. Then
hot water and heavy cream are added and the drink is beaten until frothy.
The French lady served the delicious chocolat in small, squat royal blue cups, which one
sees in Orleans and plans to buy, without fail. And with the steaming hot drink, meringues
were served. But they were not like American meringues. They were filled with whipped
cream.
(Cream Meringues)
cup sugar 1/4 cup water
egg whites unbeaten
Mix the ingredients together in a granite saucepan. Set the pan in a pot of simmering
water and stir constantly
until the mixture is heavy enough to hold its shape. Remove the pan from the hot
water and set it in cold water. Continue stirring until cool. Drop into small cookies
and bake at 250° F. for forty-five minutes. Carefully crush in the bottoms of the
meringues and allow them to cool. When ready to serve, fill the centers with whipped
cream and press two meringues together.
(Chocolate Cream Puffs)
1 cup flour sifted 2 tbsp. sugar
1 cup water 4 eggs unbeaten
1/3 cup butter 1/4 tsp. salt
Heat the butter, sugar, salt and water together until it boils. Gradually add the
flour and cook until the mixture does not stick to the pan. Stir constantly. Remove from
the fire and add the eggs, one at a time. Mix well. Drop into small cakes and bake at
450° F. for twenty minutes. Reduce the heat to 325° F. and continue baking twenty
minutes. Make a slit in the side of the cakes and fill with whipped cream. Ice the tops
with sweet chocolate melted over hot water.
3. Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly
Puff paste sugar
egg slightly beaten jam or marmalade
Roll puff paste thin. Cut with a fluted cutter. From half of the biscuits cut a ring
from the center. Brush the biscuits with egg. Place one with a hole upon a whole
biscuit. Bake at 450° F. for fifteen minutes. Just before removing the cakes from the
oven sprinkle them with sugar and bake until glazed. Fill the centers with jam just
before serving.
(Walnut Cake)
4 egg whites well beaten 1 cup walnuts chopped
4 egg yolks well beaten 1 cup dry bread crumbs
grated rind of 1/2 lemon 1/8 tsp. mace
1/2 cup sugar 1/8 tsp. cloves
Blend the egg yolks and sugar together. Add the bread crumbs, nuts and flavoring.
Fold in the egg whites. Spread thinly into a well buttered pan and bake at 350° F. for
thirty minutes. Cut into small squares and spread with whipped cream just before
serving.
(Sponge Cake)
1/2 cup cake flour sifted 5 egg yolks unbeaten
three times 5 egg whites beaten stiff
1/2 cup sugar sifted
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. vanilla
Add the sugar, salt and vanilla to the egg yolks and beat ten minutes. Fold in the
egg whites. Then lightly fold in the flour. Pour into a shallow baking pan and bake at
325° F. for thirty minutes. Cut into small squares when cold and spread with the
following:
2 egg yolks unbeaten 1 cup milk
2 tbsp. sugar 1/2 cup almonds blanched
1 tbsp. flour and chopped
1/2 tsp. vanilla
Mix the egg yolks, sugar, flour and milk together in a double boiler and cook for
five minutes. Stir to keep from lumping. Remove from the fire and add the almonds and
vanilla. Cool before spreading the cakes.
Sift together
21/2 cups flour 11/2 cups flour sifted
1/2 tsp. salt 1 cake compressed yeast
1/2 cup butter melted
Mix With 1 cup milk warmed
1 cup Sultana raisins 1/2 cup milk cold
3 eggs well beaten
Break the yeast in small pieces and add it to the warm milk. When it begins to foam
beat in the flour. Continue beating for five minutes. Let the batter rise in a warm
place for two hours. Add the sponge, eggs, cold milk, and butter to the flour and
raisins and mix into a smooth dough. Knead for ten minutes. Form into a thin cake, place
in a well-greased pan, set in a warm place and let rise to twice the bulk. Bake at 375°
F. for about thirty minutes.
Make a heavy syrup of 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water. When the syrup spins a
thread remove from the fire and stir in 6 tablespoons of Madeira. Baste the warm cake
with the syrup, putting on so little at a time that it does not soak into the cake. Cut
in small squares when cold.